Tag Archives: Travel

10 Years of Freedom

Today was amazing! We went to Pretoria for the 10 year anniversary of freedom! We got off the bus and began following the crowd down Church street toward the Union hall. People began to chant and clap and march/dance down the street. Tears streamed down my face as I marched with them. I was so moved by the pride and joy of the South African people. As we got closer to the area where the speeched and concert would be held men climbed up in trees while the women set up camp underneath. As far as I could see in all directions there was a sea of black faces. Throughout the whole day, I saw less than 50 white people including the 12 in my group.

We stood as a group near two trees and watched the people go by. People would smile, some would look at us curiously and others would clap or shake our hands. Once they saw our cameras they would crowd together in the hopes of getting their pictures taken. The African people, we have met have loved having their photos taken.

As it got closer to noon we followed the others into the crowd to get a view of the stage. So many people. We found a spot where we could see the big screens of what was happening. A beautiful young South African women kept sneaking glimpses my way. When I said hello, her face broke into a huge smile. We began to visit. Her name is Charmane and she has another name which means it is full or complete. She is 13 years old and she had traveled 3 hours by bus with her father to be at this celebration. As we took in the sights together, she wrapped her arms around Pennye and I. Her face was filled with wonder. As we left, I slipped a turquoise ring on her finger. She grabbed me and hugged me tightly, then she looked into my eyes and said, “I love you.”

Pennye, Lynn and I got our faces painted. Pennye had the S. African flag painted on her right cheek. Lynn and I had the flag on one cheek, “10” on our foreheads and “years” on our left cheek. People seemed surprised and amused by us and would reach out and clasp our hands or stop to visit with us.

As we left the celebration we stopped to watch a group of ZULU women dancing and were encouraged to join them. I felt too shy and just danced form the sideline.

Earlier, Lynn and I had wondered over to a watch a circle of people singing and dancing. As we got close to them a man grabbed Lynn’s hand and another grabbed mine. They then danced us into the center of the circle to dance with the people. All around us were people singing a freedom chant. It was incredibly powerful.

On our way back to the bus, a reporter stopped our group and asked if they could interview us for SA NBC Radio. Pennye and I were interviewed about our experience of the celebration and our impressions of the city of Pretoria.

As we headed back down Church Street to our bus, people were still marching up and down the street, carrying the S. African flag and chanting freedom chants. I stood 100 feet in front of the crowd as they marched toward me to get a picture. Before I knew it they had grabbed our hands in joy and friendship and brought us into the center of their celebration, clapping our hands, dancing with us to their songs of freedom.

I am overwhelmed by the beauty of these people. They have been so open and welcoming to us. Their pride in being S. African is inspiring, their joy is contagious and their sense of welcome brings me to tears.

Morning Game Drive

Today was my husband, Niko’s birthday. I started the day at 5:30am. I got up and went to the Bakubug Office to go out on my final morning game drive. Oliver, our guide picked us up in a land rover and took us into the 7th largest game park in South Africa. We watched the sun come up and paint the sky in various hues of pink, red and orange as a giraffe nibbled her breakfast from a nearby tree. It was awesome. We were out on our drive for 2 hours. The morning rides are so quiet and peaceful. The views of the mountains, the mists, the savannah, the animals are breathtaking. On our 4 game drives we saw giraffes, lions, elephant, impala, white rhinos, zebra, jackal, water buck, baboon, warthog, blue gnu,rock rabbit, wildebeest, brown hyena,owl, sacred ibis, and dotter bird.

I returned to the lodge and by 9:00am I was on a bus with the rest of the crew.on our way back to Johannesburg feeling incredibly grateful and at peace. Two hours later we arrived in Soweto at the Othowandi Orphange and my sorrow was once again ignited. It rests just below my diaphragm, pushing in like a fist.

Othowandi is a wonderful orphanage. The children are very well cared for and most of the children were easily engaged. There are 31 children and 91 other children. There are on sight cottages for the older children. As we went through the baby ward my heart was so sad. Some of the children were very sick, others looked very healthy. Some were asleep and others reached out to play.

I spent most of my time with a little boy whose name means “one who brings happiness”. He was about 6 to 8 months old, and very round and chubby. He sat in his bed watching me. Then he began to turn his head from side to side, I did the same and a game was born. He would laugh and we would hold hands shaking our heads together. He was a beautiful child.

The cottages are for older children. 4 children to each small bedroom. I was surprised at how some teen behaviors are universal. Each of the rooms was decorated with posters and magazine photos of teen idols like emmenem. The surprising thing I found on the walls of each of the rooms was Reiki certificated. Many of the teens have been trained in Reiki healing. One of the staff told me that there is also a group of Reiki practitioners who come in and do reiki on the babies. I was totally tickled!

From the orphanage we went on to the Soweto Hospice. Again, I was inspired by the women who run this program and those women who volunteer to do home visits. Last year, the 5 paid nurses did over 5,000 home visits and the 45 volunteers did over 25,000.

There are 10 beds at the facility, filled with people who either have no family or whose family have refused to care for them. There is such a stigma around AIDS that some people are even afraid to touch a family member who has AIDS.

I visited a young women who was in so much pain. We looked deeply into each others eyes and with tears in mine, I told her I was so sorry. She told me she was tired and in so much pain. Then she showed me her bedsores. The fist below my diaphragm pushed in deeper.

The Welcome

Today we received a welcome like no other. We spent the morning at Baragwanath Hospital in Soweto. This hospital services over 2 million people in one of the most densely populated areas in South Africa. The hospital is an old military base. They turned it into a hospital in 1947 and have been threatening to demolish many of the derelict buildings since 1969. Yet, they still stand and hold 2700 beds on a very grim compound.

The nurses who greeted us in the palliative care department were vibrant and gave a whole new meaning to hospitality. As we entered the office they each greeted us with laughter, a loud hello and outstretched arms. Each of us received a hug and a welcome. As the last women embraced me tears streamed down my face. Never have I felt so welcomed.

The nurses, who are called sister, took us into the conference room where Doctor Rusty met with us. She had 100 patients to see this day, yet she took time out of her schedule to talk with us for an hour.

Then Sister Zohdwa told us about the Palliative Care Project. There are 3 nurses who are funded by Ireland AID and 2 are funded by the hospital. Each of these nurses go out into the field and see 8 patients each day. They are on call 24/7 and once someone is their patient they are their patient until death. The spirit of these women is remarkable. Their laughter is contagious.

The sisters then took us to 3 homes. We split up into 3 groups and each group was allowed to go into one home with the sister.

I went to the home of Pamela who is 26 years old and living with AIDS. Pamela is being cared for by her granny. Granny had 6 children and 4 have already died. I looked at her and wondered how one lives with the grief of watching their children die. Pamela’s mother was granny’s daughter. She passed away last year. Pamela’s father died in 1994.

Granny pays about $85.00 a month for retro virals for Pamela. These drugs have helped her so much. Pamela is very lucky to have a support system of granny and her aunties to care and advocate for her.

While the other groups visited their homes, we stood outside our van and talked with the neighbors. People would begin to peek out from around the fence wondering what we were doing there. We saw a darling little girl watching us intensely. Karly and I brought her a beanie baby. At first she was quite unsure what to do. As she took it in her arms and I took her picture another child appeared, then another and another. Pretty soon grannies were walking over with their little ones hoping to receive a treasure, proud to have their pictures taken.

The grannies are so beautiful. Their faces are deeply etched by their life’s story. I felt proud to stand next to these strong, generous and committed women. In our country, we often here people complain about boomerang children. Ready once their children reach a certain age to be done with the parenting thing. And here are these grannies, who not only raised their children but now support their children and their families on their small $100.00 stipend each month.

Today was a day of being humbled by the generous, joyful spirit of the African women…by the sisters, by the grannies, by Dr. Rusty. My heart is full of gratitude.

South Africa: Day 1

Today was my first day in the field. I am overwhelmed with emotion.

We started the day with Cora. She is a veterinarian who cares for the pets of the poor. She also cares deeply for the poor for as she said, “How can you treat the dog of a person who has no food for their family and not help
get them food?” So Cora goes into the shanty towns of Soweto and brings
with her food, clothing and supplies. She helps transport the dying to
hospices and cares for many children living alone. She is an amazing woman.

Our first stop was to visit an organization called TCE. This group of women
provide AIDS education, counseling and testing. Their goal is to reach
100,000 people in the shanty towns within 3 years. I was amazed to learn
that 80% of the people who have AIDS also have TB so they also provide
medications for TB.

From there we visited the homes of 4 women. These homes were all made of
tin, none of them was bigger than my bedroom, and they housed up to 8
people. The first home was the home of Fekeela. Inside her little shack it
was beautiful. She had taken great care in creating her home. One half of
her home was her bed, brightly decorated with a beautiful bedspread. The
other half was the kitchen which was very clean and well organized. Fekeela
helps Cora. Her only pay is a box of food each week. Still, she goes out
daily to care for those who are dying of AIDS and to help those who have no
food or money. Outside her home, I met a beautiful grandmother who is
raising many grandchildren, having lost her children to AIDS. Cora informed
me that she really needed help, so I slipped some money into her hand. She
and I hugged and tears streamed down my face. I was so humbled by her. At
each house we visited, when I looked into the eyes of the women, I began to
cry. They are not tears of pity. They are tears of great sorrow. These
women have suffered so much and yet their hearts are strong and they
continue to give in abundance to those around them. The sorrow is for all
they have suffered. And the sorrow is for myself and for the world that we
can live our lives so unaware and cut off from so much.

From Fekeelas house we went to the house of Alina. Her husband has died, she has AIDS and her son who is 15 lives with her. Her son works each day
Monday to Monday to take care of himself and his mother. He makes the
equivalent of $25.00 a month. We brought Alina food, sheets, and money. We
wrapped a beautiful scarf around her neck. She was grateful for all of
these gifts. She was brought to tears, however, when she watched the
Polaroid photograph of herself develop before her eyes. It meant so much to
her to have this picture of herself. She tenderly tucked it under her
pillow and while we were there she went back many times to look at it.

We visited 2 more homes and then raced back for our 3:00 appointment at
Mother Theresa’s Hospice and Orphanage. We spent most of our time with the
children. When we walked into the toddler room I sat down on a bench and a
feisty little girl about 18 months or so came over and climbed in my lap.
She was a little fireball and it was a delight to watch her. What disturbed
me was that unlike this feisty little girl, most of the children had lost
their light. Their faces were solemn and serious. They didn’t want to be
touched. They watched us carefully. I couldn’t help but think of my own
Sam and his great big light. I was struck with gratitude for him and for
all Niko and I are able to provide because of the amazing abundance in our
lives.

The missionaries of Charity care for about 40 dying women and men and 40
children at this centre. They also go into over 80 homes and care for those
who have AIDS. There are 7 nuns and 20 paid workers. Each of the people we
met, whether they were someone dying or one of the children, were clean and
well dressed. It is obvious that they are well cared for. The work of
Mother Theresa is very much alive. Sister Gustavo Maria shared with us that
although they were given a washing machine they pay women to come and washed
the clothes each day. Mother Theresa had taught them that although a wash
machine is more cost effective, hire women to wash them by feeds families.
Sister Gustavo Maria asked us to pray for her that she will grow in
patience. Please keep her and all these women in your prayers.

So, I end this day in a very tender place. I am so grateful for this
opportunity and for all that is cracking open in me. Thank you. Each and
every one of you, Thank you. your support has gotten me here. I am forever
grateful.

Send Me Lord. I will Go.

On April 17th, I am going to South Africa with a delegation of women from across the US to immerse myself in the AIDS pandemic. We will spend time at orphanages, hospitals, clinics, the shanty towns and Mother Theresa’s AIDS hospice.

This journey began for me during a lay over in the Minneapolis airport where I was searching for something to eat. I saw a woman eating a broccoli pizza and I went up to her and asked, “Is that any good?” She told me it was quite good and invited me to sit down and share it with her. We consumed the pizza as we digested each other’s stories and I quickly recognized in this woman a sister of the soul.

As Lynn began to share with me that her deepest passion was taking groups of women to South Africa and immersing them in the AIDS pandemic, I found myself blurting out that I could find 10 women to go. She had not invited me to go, nor had she asked me to find anyone to go, but something in me sprang forth. My mind tried to hold me back as it screamed, ”What are you talking about?!!!” But my spirit stayed steady and focused. I began to collect the details of the trip as the two of us headed to board the same plane. Lynn lives in Olympia.

I took two weeks to sit with the various voices in me. Although there were many practical reasons to wait, the pull in me to go was stronger. And so, with the support of my husband and son, I said yes to what I had instinctively known all along – that I was called to go on this journey.

Once I committed myself fully, an energy was released. Spirit began to dance and things began to happen:
Over 15 friends thought seriously about joining me. 5 are going this year, and others are already fundraising to go next year.
I received all the money I needed to go as well as additional funds to donate to the programs we will visit.
I received an email from a friend who was forwarding me a letter from a woman she had met last year at a Leadership conference in Canada. The woman was from Kwazulu Natal, South Africa – one of the only areas I knew we were going to. She was writing to describe the plight of her people and to ask to be connected up with any organizations that might be able to help.
Three days later a friend called to ask me to call a friend of hers who I had never met. Her friend was giving a talk at the Evangelical Lutheran Women’s Conference and wanted to close her talk with my fundraising letter and ask people to support this project.
The following week, a new mother at my son’s school came up to me and asked if Sam could come over for a play date. We began to visit and I discovered that she is a research nutritionist who has developed a non-allergen baby formula and other food products. When I asked her where I could find these items she told me that they were just going to manufacturing and that the first 6 months of everything made would be going to South Africa to the AIDS Pandemic.
That Sunday, I was sitting in a pew with 4 five and six year old boys who were strung out on sugar. The only part of the Mass I heard was a wonderful chant we sang. The first 2 verses were in a language I did not recognize and then we sang them in English. “Thu-ma mi-na, thu-ma mi-na, thu-ma mi-na, Nko-si yam.
Ndi-ya bu-ma, ndi-ya bu-ma, ndi-ya bu-ma, Nko-si yam. Send me, Jesus. Send me, Jesus. Send me, Jesus. Send me, Lord. I am willing. I am willing. I am willing, willing, Lord.” As I sang and swayed to the beat of the drum, my husband tapped me on the shoulder, pointing to the song sheet. It was a South African hymn. Before Mass, Marcia Matthaei had told me she was about 80% sure she was going to go. I walked up to her after Mass and she said she was now 100% sure she was going. What other sign could she possible need?
Over and over, I have been amazed by the connections that have been made, how Spirit moves in, through and with us when we open ourselves to Her urgings.

As Marcia and I go on this journey, we ask you to pray for us. This pandemic kills 8,000 people a day. It orphans another child every 14 seconds. It is said that the number of children raising themselves without any adult to care for them is equal to all the children in New York and California combined. Children as young as 6 years old are raising their younger brothers and sisters. Our intention is to raise our consciousness to the plight of these people, and to come back home to be a spokesperson for these most vulnerable members of our human family. Please pray that we will be safe, that we will open and that we will stay connected to the Spirit of joy and hope.

Thu-ma mi-na, thu-ma mi-na, thu-ma mi-na, Nko-si yam.
Ndi-ya bu-ma, ndi-ya bu-ma,ndi-ya bu-ma, Nko-si yam.
Send me, Jesus. Send me, Jesus. Send me, Jesus. Send me, Lord.
I am willing. I am willing. I am willing, willing, Lord.