Today we received a welcome like no other. We spent the morning at Baragwanath Hospital in Soweto. This hospital services over 2 million people in one of the most densely populated areas in South Africa. The hospital is an old military base. They turned it into a hospital in 1947 and have been threatening to demolish many of the derelict buildings since 1969. Yet, they still stand and hold 2700 beds on a very grim compound.

The nurses who greeted us in the palliative care department were vibrant and gave a whole new meaning to hospitality. As we entered the office they each greeted us with laughter, a loud hello and outstretched arms. Each of us received a hug and a welcome. As the last women embraced me tears streamed down my face. Never have I felt so welcomed.

The nurses, who are called sister, took us into the conference room where Doctor Rusty met with us. She had 100 patients to see this day, yet she took time out of her schedule to talk with us for an hour.

Then Sister Zohdwa told us about the Palliative Care Project. There are 3 nurses who are funded by Ireland AID and 2 are funded by the hospital. Each of these nurses go out into the field and see 8 patients each day. They are on call 24/7 and once someone is their patient they are their patient until death. The spirit of these women is remarkable. Their laughter is contagious.

The sisters then took us to 3 homes. We split up into 3 groups and each group was allowed to go into one home with the sister.

I went to the home of Pamela who is 26 years old and living with AIDS. Pamela is being cared for by her granny. Granny had 6 children and 4 have already died. I looked at her and wondered how one lives with the grief of watching their children die. Pamela’s mother was granny’s daughter. She passed away last year. Pamela’s father died in 1994.

Granny pays about $85.00 a month for retro virals for Pamela. These drugs have helped her so much. Pamela is very lucky to have a support system of granny and her aunties to care and advocate for her.

While the other groups visited their homes, we stood outside our van and talked with the neighbors. People would begin to peek out from around the fence wondering what we were doing there. We saw a darling little girl watching us intensely. Karly and I brought her a beanie baby. At first she was quite unsure what to do. As she took it in her arms and I took her picture another child appeared, then another and another. Pretty soon grannies were walking over with their little ones hoping to receive a treasure, proud to have their pictures taken.

The grannies are so beautiful. Their faces are deeply etched by their life’s story. I felt proud to stand next to these strong, generous and committed women. In our country, we often here people complain about boomerang children. Ready once their children reach a certain age to be done with the parenting thing. And here are these grannies, who not only raised their children but now support their children and their families on their small $100.00 stipend each month.

Today was a day of being humbled by the generous, joyful spirit of the African women…by the sisters, by the grannies, by Dr. Rusty. My heart is full of gratitude.